At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno shows that not everything has to glitter to be gold | R0UKD44

At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno shows that not everything has to glitter to be gold | R0UKD44 | 2024-02-28 14:08:01

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That's to not say that there was a scarcity of glamour: it simply came in a special type to what we've come to anticipate from Gucci. While many designers typically have a guideline or muse for a set, De Sarno's work is much less laboured — he informed press backstage that he doesn't have a theme, ever — and perhaps that's why the collection was capable of ease from outerwear to tailoring to celebration frocks with such fluidity.

For the occasion dressing set, frothy, red-carpet prepared slips have been meticulously crafted, and a set of v-necked, sequin-heavy shifts caught the sunshine superbly. Typically, they have been coated partially on the runway by heavy coats — for De Sarno, magnificence seems in the elusive fairly than the apparent, and sexiness is earned relatively than doled out in extra.

The standard coat was, actually, king within the assortment: within the show notes, De Sarno referred to making a coat as "a meticulous journey during which every gesture can change the ultimate end result," and his collection as an "an obsessive repetition of that journey." There were swinging jackets and structured peacoats, and quilted leather-based variations of the identical which have been, on nearer look, embossed with the GG emblem many occasions over. Meanwhile, strong-shouldered overcoats, which fell over knit twinsets and fits alike, have been typically misleading: they have been business up the highest, but devolved into one thing rather a lot much less critical as the eye trailed down. Ranging from the waist, strains of paillettes and crystalline elaborations emerged, their cover turning into increasingly more dense to crescendo on the hem in all-out sparkle.

The motifs of the home of Gucci are a number of the most recognisable in fashion, and De Sarno has been enjoying the task of reinterpreting them. He was playful in his tackle the Gucci horsebit, fashioning it into ostentatiously excessive platform slingback loafers, with the motif at their centre. An immediately covetable it-girl piece, if we ever noticed one.

As he finds his grounding at the house — this is, in any case, solely his sophomore assortment, De Sarno's vision turns into clearer and clearer. Those that wish to the previous would do better, maybe, to absorb the riches of the present: glossy cuts, new twists on previous motifs, and a contemporary injection of cool-girl sexiness.